"Tea continues serenely to dominate our culture, its rituals pervading every
area of our social life. The teapot is an icon for all classes..." - Jonathan
Margolis
In the early twentieth century, the appearance of tea could be found everywhere.
In 1901, each person was drinking approximately six pounds of tea every year,
and Britain was consuming 60% of the world tea supply. Everything seemed to
revolve around the drink and the meal. For example, one could open the pages
of almost any novel and magazine and find numerous scenes taking place at tea
parties. In J.M. Barrie's play Peter Pan, one could watch Peter Pan offer
Wendy, John, and Michael the choice of an adventure now, or tea. Even the
BBC had to carefully consider when to broadcast certain television programs to
fit around tea time. The People's Food, 1938, said, "The hour of the teatime
meal is even more important to wireless broadcasters than breakfast or lunch."
Those of Edwardian Britain drank tea, prepared by their servants at regular
intervals throughout the day. However, as the years went by and the presence
of servants in household disappeared, "teasmades" began to appear, which
would sit beside the bed, and when the timer would go off, it would boil water that
had been set ready with tea leaves. Thus, one could drink his or her tea in
private before attending breakfast, to consume even more tea or coffee!
Afternoon tea for the middle and upper classes was a formal event involving
three-tiered stands, and servants supplying plates of sandwiches, bread and
butter, scones, toast, and pastries. The event would usually take place in a
suitable location as well. Whenever the Queen Mary would give an afternoon
tea party at Buckingham Palace, she would wear long gloves and have it in the
green drawing room, where there were flowers and the "loveliest little cakes,
sandwiches, sweets, fruits, and hot scones are laid out invitingly." (Home Notes,
1930s)
Tea continued to increase in popularity with the opening of tea houses. Many of
the tea houses in grand hotels were large airy palm courts, lounges, or
conservatories where tea was served every day to the accompaniment of trios,
string quartets, or piano music. On weekends and bank holidays, country lanes
and seaside resorts were filled with 'day trippers' who would frequently visit
these local tea gardens during the afternoons.
Later, the arrival of the tango from Argentina provoked an obsessive interest,
and let to the craze for tango tea dances. The Waldorf Hotel became one of the
main venues for tea dances. German incendiary bombs fell on the hotel in
1939, ending the dances, but they were reintroduced in 1982. The Waldorf's
Edwardian Palm Court is still a venue for its trademark tea dances every
Saturday and Sunday afternoon.
The passion for tea dances continued into the early 1920s, when they gradually
lost their appeal due to cocktail hour.
However, in the 1950's, legislation concerning wages and working conditions
made running tea shops much more expensive. The serving of afternoon tea in
grand hotels in large towns became nothing more than a pot of teabag tea, a
carelessly-made sandwich, and a piece of pre-packed cake. On the contrary, one
could still find clotted cream, homemade cakes and pots of looseleaf tea in
porcelain pots in certain places, like Cornwall and Devon.
In the early 1980s, several new ventures arose. For example, The Tea House
opened in London's Covent Garden and an old dairy in Finchley, north London
was restored to its original charm in order to serve tea on Sundays afternoons.
The Waldorf held its tea dances and the Ritz started to hold weekend dances.
In order to take tea, you had to know where to go. In London, The Ritz,
Lanesborough, and Four Seasons are some perfect for afternoon teas. In New
York, The Pierre, Peninsula, Carlyle and dozens more. Tearooms served
excellent tea and teatime pastries.
Around this time, people around the world became fascinated by the concept of
afternoon tea and decided to try themselves. The United Kingdom Tea Council
also decided to find quality tearooms in order to invite them to join the Tea
Council Guide of Teashops. The Guild's buidebook is published each year with a
page for each venue. Its purpose is to help visitors find the best places for tea!
In the 1990's tea was threatened by the boom of coffee drinking. However, both
drinks remain widely popular today.
By Melissa Goldman